CHRISTIAN COWAN x NYFW 2019-2020

Watch the Fall-Winter 2019/20 Ready-to-Wear show by Christian Cowan presented at Spring Studios in New York City.

by STEFF YOTKA

Christian Cowan is being practical. Well, practical for him. Having built a brand dressing entertainers—the likes of Susanne Bartsch and Aquaria were in Cowan’s front row today—his idea of pragmatism is neon-hued and covered in crystals. If his opening look, a fluoro-pink cocktail frock with a full feather skirt, set the mood to party, what followed was a more mainstream take on the Cowan spirit. His most successful adaptations were a series of bias-draped crystal-mesh minidresses, just in your face enough to read as Cowan creations without overpowering the wearer. He continued his popular sweatshirts with crystal trimming too, making one just long enough to qualify as a dress and then dipping it in feathers. Ariana Grande, take note.

Elsewhere, Cowan expanded his daywear offerings with leather minis, perforated polo dresses, and a wearable leather dress in tangerine orange. Where he faltered was in his tulle adaptations; they lacked the same potent cleverness as his paillette-dipped or watch-band numbers, which have now become classics of his oeuvre. Being the biggest dress on the catwalk doesn’t mean much. What did work was his slinky black tuxedo jumpsuit with inset pleating at the side seams. Cowan might be welcoming a new practicality, but he still knows how to make a scene.

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